Twilight in Southern Africa is a short affair – 45 minutes after sunset and evening rustles in. As birds and animals come in to roost there’s a gradual lessening of ‘chirp’. Here at the Kunene River Lodge the wind subsides and the water takes on a heavenly appearance to perfectly reflect the sky and clouds. It is remarkably serene – for about 15 minutes before the night chorus cranks up. Cicadas, crickets, frogs, night jars all tune up and deafen the night in syncopated symphony.